Lets Talk Torque Converters.....

Alright.

The time has come for me to find a new converter for the Camaro, and I'm getting a bit confused with the options available.

Ive determined that a 3600 stall would be either dead on for what I want or at least very close (going by the peak torque rpm an the dyno sheet I have) Correct me if I'm wrong, but stall speed should be right around 80% of peak torque RPMS.... I'm still not set on a manufacturer,but hopefully I can get some help picking one here. I want something reasonably priced, PREFERABLY around 500 buck or under. I also want to retain lockup like the stock converter does, so I can comfortably drive it down the road/highway.

Single or Multi Sprag lockup: What does this mean, and which would be the better choice? I see some manufacturers offer both types, but Im not sure which to go with.

9.5 inch or 10 Inch? Am I right in thinking that the stock converter is a 10 inch unit? Any benefits of either of the two sizes? I've heard that a smaller converter generates more heat?

The car will have the proper TCI flexplate (sfi approved) behind it along with ARP hardware to attach the flexplate to the motor and the converter to the flexplate. any issues with this at all?


Like I said, i have to order this within the next couple of weeks, but I need to figure out my options as well as a manufacturer yet.

So far, I think the Yank ss3600 would be a bit too expensive (700-800 bucks from what I see)

I've heard bad things about the TCI converters, wrong stalls and failures, so that manufacturer is out of the running..

Vigilante seems to be a decent converter, but again asks me for options Im not sure on.

I think Mikey used a PTC converter and liked it? I cant remember what he told me LOL

I've also heard that Midwest converter does a good job with their stalls,



I've typically driven cars with manual transmissions, so i'm a bit in the dark on torque converters. any help would be great!


Thanks in advance!

I have a PTC converter in my car, and so far I love it! supposed to be a 3800 stall, but stalled more around 4000 on Nates Dyno. It drives great both in town and on the highway.

I second PTC as a company. I had a 4200 stall in my coronet. It flashed to 4600 which was exactly 1000 Rpm's less then my shift point which is what I liked.

I think most Important, you get what you pay for with converters. Buy a decent one and call them up and have them build it to the specs of the car.

Mike

Just don't go cheap on a converter!

I had a ptc in the vette and liked it. I have a coan in the nova and am happy with that too. Your best bet is going to be asking on ls1 tech........ I know you want to stay at 500 but if the one you need is 700 then you need to spend 700.

I Agree Steve. I know what I want to spend may not be possible. I tried over at ls1tech in the fall, but didnt get much good info to be honest. Ill talk to PTC and see what they say as far as cost goes, and what the reccomend as far as options. If its going to be as much as the SS3600 Yank that I found, I mighr just go tbat route. Its good to find some people that have had good experiences with PTC. I know that some people have reported that the Vig converters are a bit too loose with higher stall speeds, so at least now i have some info to look into. Thanks for the replies!!

Mine was 9.5 built for $475 shipped to my door. What was nice about them? When I wanted to change it and tighten it up a bit. They did it for free , other then shipping. I'll never deal with anyone other PTC.

Mike

I had a PI stallion in my 99, and a neal chance 3000 stall in my yellow coupe. My yellow car, on a 100 shot would do 1.4 60' leaving just above idle.

I have a Art Carr in my 71 and a midwest in my 02. Both work great

Personally, I think 3600 would be a bit to much for the street, especially if you wanted to launch it with street tires. That LT1 is a torque monster and you wont need a lot of converter/rpm to get it out of the hole. I had a 2400 in my GTP and that was plenty for the street.

That would be why you don't race on street tires.

On topic tho, had a vig 4400 built for nitrous use and loved it.

I do see Tye's point, but the thing is to get w decent launch, it is going to need a combo of verter and tires. I think the biggest issue with a loose converter would be heat. If I wouldn't of told people, they would of had no clue I had a loose converter in it. However, I made damn sure that thing was cooled. This being said their is a trade off. If you drive it in the winter you need to be careful, that the fluid doesn't get heated up enough, but for me this was never as issue.

I know lots of guys running torque converters with stall speeds in the 4500 range. I know crazy sounding, but they were blasts to drive.

Mike

You would never guess that my stall is as high as it is!

You have to decide what is more important street or strip...... My car needs a lot more converter for the track, but it works well on the street. But if your not on a tire at all then I doing care what you have for a stall your going to blow the tires off it. so if your not willing to put a tire on it don't waste your money on a good converter.

+1

I appreciate all the advice here! I spoke with Tim from PTC today and we picked out a decent street/strip converter for the car. after giving him the specs of the motor he was able to get me into one for 450 plus shipping. As soon as next week hits, its being ordered! I really liked how he took the time to ask about the car, and had no problem explaining things to me that I didn't understand. BTW I decided to go with a 10 inch unit.

Steve: As soon as I can find a set of 17" wheels or trade my 18s for some, Ill be running a drag radial out back. The only thing I'm worried about at this point (not really worried honestly) is breaking the shit out of the rear end. If that happens, Ive already picked out a Moser rear end (12 bolt) that will be dropped in.

Auto still break rearends, they just dont do it as much!

the lt1 cars have a 7.5" rear in em dont they?

blackmage wrote:

the lt1 cars have a 7.5" rear in em dont they?

LS1 too!

Shitty 10 bolt glass slipper of a rear end.

Yep. Autos seem t break rear ends less frequently, but it does happen.