3000GT VR4 BPU "Stock" / Sleeper build. (pic heavy)

So, as my first post. I'd like to put forth my build thread.

I've got pretty good Knowledge in regards to things such as Horsepower and Track; but I'm always building, and helping on other peoples cars, but I've never really been able to build anything awesome of my own just due to finances. As I get older tho, Better jobs have opened up, and I'm getting better with money.

Well this is how I got the car.

$3,000 2 Owner, 145K Miles, Ran half-assed, and a front end that has been FUBAR'd

Kid said he paid $7500 for it last year, and after a few months someone "Backed into him"

(I apologize if these pictures are too large, other forum I am use to automatically resizing pictures)



I call BS, I think it was more he ran it up under something or into a guard rail going 40mph.

just some pictures from the car in its "Untouched" Nature



definitely a dealer selling point there.



Window sticker, Factory paper work, Maintenance, etc. Always a reassuring thing when buying these cars.



Was suprised that the car made the two hour drive home. This happened while idling in the driveway as I was Setting/Checking the Ignition timing and Base idle.



Well I planned on replacing this anyways.



Let me go ahead and explain my goals as of now. I am going for a "Ray Pampena" Build. Now I'm sure none of you have ever heard of him but hes a great guy, and a big name i the 3000GT world World-Wide, and has a shop in NY. Anyways, one of his cars is his "Ultra Sleeper Stock GTR Eating VR4" you could say. It looks bone stock, stock wheels, etc. its just a 3.1L light stroker (which basically does nothing) with bigger Turbos, and tuned. Stock Exhaust, Stock intercoolers, Stock Manifolds, Stock everything pretty much, and puts down 650whp on pump gas. I want to go for the same type of build, but not quite as much horsepower, and smaller turbos.

This year will be just BPU, getting the car in good shape and what not... Starting Next year, I would like to get a spare motor, with a 4 Bolt bottom end and forged crank (91 has whimpy 2 Bolt bottom end and cast crank) and throw a set of bigger turbos at it. I am thinking somewhere in the 13G-19T Range with TD04HL Turbines.

*Stand by for more!*

Started taring into it. Did a vacuum line reduction, deleted 90% of all the emissions BS.



Car had 1000000032590 Boost leaks, 2 blown ignition coils, and some shot wiring.

under WOT car would pull too about 3.5-4.5K and cut hard.

I ended up replacing the TPS, Coils, as well as over half the wiring harness and its plugs. aside from normal maintenance things like Rear Turbo seal, Spark plugs, related fuel things.. Ended up being 1 bad wire in the wiring harness. Oh well. Fixed now tho.

Damage







I see it was repainted at some point





absolutely destroyed lower radiator support.



Now the car still drives straight, the extent of the damage was purely cosmetic, and thankfully the Transmission mount prevented the damage from going past the suspension it looked like.

I tore it all apart, while I waited for a body ship guy to give me a estimate on what it might cost to just pull the frame straight for me. Some things I did in the mean time.



after



Installed my 99 Garnish off my black 3000GT. Looks so much better in my opinion.



Guy game by he gave me a "I really don't want to fuck with it so it'll cost you $5,000 at least just to fix the frame" Estimate So I said K, thx bye. and started working on it myself

So after a few hours with the Torch, Saw, Scissor jack, welder, and a Big Hammer. this was the result... Not perfect, but it'll do for now.

More Body work:

Typical BS for these to fade out.



Done



Gave it a good wash

sanded and re cleared my Active Aero Spoiler, and the drivers mirror (the spoiler looked as bad as the Mirror does. light orange peel but thats ok. (this was just rattle can btw)



done




fast forward a few weeks..

at this point I have been driving the car everyday, put about 350 miles on it over the weekend. have close to 1000 miles on it already.



Got a downpipe, so I could ditch the leaky, destroyed, restrictive stock one and cats.

probably the best Bang for your buck mod for a stock car besides a boost controller.





Sound clip with stock exhaust (Factory Cut Turned on)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyhJ1OYmpE0

modifying the stock radiator mounts because they don't fit Thick aftermarket radiators. I torched it so I could bend it to the right angle, then rounded off the cut edges with a grinder, and painted it.



How it sits (please excuse the ricey blue coupler for the aftermarket y pipe. Waiting for my black one to get here)



and a little 2nd/3rd pull... I didn't have full boost in 2nd for some reason..

13 psi. Base Ignition timing is set a 5* advanced, so less then stock, little under powered compared to what it will be on 13 psi.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fvsduzJdZ4

dumb thing about these cars. The US cars got the tiny 9B turbos, and they are so tiny, that they cant hold much boost at high rpms. Example: I am running 13 psi right now. at about 5500-6000rpms boost drops off to about 9 psi. only way to fix it is bigger turbos. but, they are still good for 10 seconds in the 1/4 and 500ftlbs of tq.

Oh, for anyone who didn't thoroughly read everything. Here is a Mod, and to do list.


Current Mods/Specs
Stock motor, 145K miles. 120K maint. done.
Stock TD04 9B Turbos
Stock Intercoolers and Piping
Dual Core Aluminum radiator
3" Cat eliminating Stainless Steel Downpipe
Cheap Boost controller (currently spiking at 13/14 psi, dropping off to 9 psi as redline approaches)
K&N "Intake"
Vacuum Reduction, and Emissions Delete
Clutch booster delete.
Stock Active Exhaust Catback

Mods to come as of now.
what I would like to have done this year

Tein S-Tech lowering springs
FMIC
Seattle Solid Motor mounts
Ninja Performance Transfer-case Brace
Possibility of a BF Billet Tcase, and 300M Hardened Shaft
New Pre-Turbo Intake pipes.
New Clutch
1 or 2 Piece Drive-shaft, unsure of what Material/Alloy
Wally 255
Ray P Fuel Rails
TONS of pretty AN Fittings and adapters and hoses.
450cc injectors
MAFT-Pro on Speed Density
New Rear end bushings
Addco Swaybars (Maybe)
AWS Delete
Rear control arms.


Next year I would like to add.
Rebuilt/New Shortblock with 4 Bolt bottom end/Mitsubishi Forged Crank.
TD04HL Turbine Upgrade with either 13G, T, 15G, or 19T Compressor wheels
and maybe a meth kit.
510-650cc injectors
Maybe Dual Wallys


My power goal is about 450whp. but with The TD04HL Turbines, and any compressor wheel bigger then the 13G the power could easily be 500+
but honestly right now the stock 300whp its most likely making is enough for the moment.

Oh speaking of which I forgot to throw this in... I like playing around with this program when I do my logs, which I do quite often...

Its only a Estimate and should not be taken seriously but I have had the numbers come back in this program within 1-5whp, what the cars have dyno'd legitimately.

With current mods this is what the cars generally make on dynos.

Nice car, welcome!

welcome.

Ray's red car has DR650's, hard pipe kit and I am pretty sure non stock exhaust.

well done on the restoration, looks pretty clean in the last pic. Go with the 2pc drive shaft from 3sx, save yourself some headache and money.

Thanks for the reply, I pulled this off his thread on 3sgto!

Quote :

im running a STOCK fuel system with a walbro 400 E85 version and 1000cc injectors with my stock ecu, maf translator with afc

car has STOCK exhaust, no front mount, everything is simple no AEM, no swapping to 99 ECUs no complex mess just pure simple power.

mod list.. some mods for power, others for strength
Pampena 3.1 stage 3
DR750s
DR heads and cams
headlift fix stock gaskets
afc/maf tanslator GM maf in draw though STOCK INTAKE HOSES
manual boost controller
rps 6 puck
Pampena bellhousing brace
Broomfield end cover
walbro 400 E85
1000cc delphis

I see a few things I need to correct my self on, but the idea is the same.

Ahh yes, completely built engine from top to bottom, DR750's and a re-enforced trans lol, I haven't looked at that thread in a while.

Yeah I went and looked it up to make sure I wasn't spewing too much Bull lol.

Great work so far. I've always had a soft prostate exam for 3000GT VR4s.

Thanks I have been in love with these cars since I was a kid.

Welcome...nice build

Welcome, anyone willing to try and fit their hands in that engine bay is a true car fan. Nice work.

2jz-U-Ltr wrote:

Welcome, anyone willing to try and fit their hands in that engine bay is a true car fan. Nice work.

its not so bad, Take away the Intercooler piping and you actually gain alot of space.

My n/a had quite a bit of room. And this was before I deleted the A/C *sigh* I do miss that car. Kept the kids number incase I decide to buy it back.



^ Ignore the ratchet strap lol, I'm sure anyone who Auto'x will understand.

welcome, and nice work.

Blackmount wrote:

its not so bad.

Shits EZ, all these people are just pussies

lol

(I have 2 VR4s)

haha, I feel the same way. But I was being nice since I am new here.

STiedVR4Guy wrote:

Blackmount wrote:

its not so bad.

Shits EZ, all these people are just pussies

lol

(I have 2 VR4s)

It helps if you're 89 pounds with hands that can barely hold a golf ball

2jz-U-Ltr wrote:

STiedVR4Guy wrote:

Blackmount wrote:

its not so bad.

Shits EZ, all these people are just pussies

lol

(I have 2 VR4s)

It helps if you're 89 pounds with hands that can barely hold a golf ball

LIKE

2jz-U-Ltr wrote:

STiedVR4Guy wrote:

Blackmount wrote:

its not so bad.

Shits EZ, all these people are just pussies

lol

(I have 2 VR4s)

It helps if you're 89 pounds with hands that can barely hold a golf ball

Haha you're such an asshole.

I'm 175 with "Coal Miner" hands as they have been called... It's honestly not that bad....unless your swapping the rear turbo...but with the right tools its no problem.

haha

not much going on. Trying to get a new TIG welder for the garage so saving a few bucks for that

haven't done much to the car.

Today I did Brakes, just some fancy rotors I think I overpaid for, and some of EBC's track pads (yellows) tho I probably should have gone with Carbotechs AX6'sfor pads.

also new tie rods, and slightly bigger fuel pump, 255lph should last me till I get new turbos, then probably go for dual 255 setup

[QUOTE=Blackmount;239590]Welp. Time for a update.

got Bored, Painted my wheels black a few weeks ago.



Not done a whole lot. Spent some time in the shop last weekend, Installing some Tein-S-Tech Lowering Springs, changing oil in T-case, Diff, Trans, and Engine, Installed a Ninja Performance Solid Tensioner, 255 Fuel pump. (also received my REAL Greddy Type RS BOV finally, but didn't get a chance to install it) Painted my Calipers too. They look really Nice and Shiney too.

Painted my Calipers too. They look really Nice and Shiney too.


Absolutely Filthy.



and then on the drive home sunday night beating on it one of my turbos came down with the loveable Turbo Death Whine...



So figured out which turbo it was, yanked it out.


Compressor wheel looks like it was digging into the Cartridge.


Turbine Shaft is both slightly Bent/Warped, and chewed up.


little blue prostate exam on the oil shield there...tells me it was starting to get very hot in that area... excessive play for the seal. Turbo started blowing oil out the compressor outlet upon its death.

Destroyed...but I have plenty of TD04 Turbines and 9B compressors laying around. went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit (yes Genuine Mitsubishi kit)

I went back and forth about upgrading but just couldn't make up my mind on if I wanted to GO BIG with like Billet 19T's or just some 13T's or what. so I decided to put it off for now...[/QUOTE]

Whats the deal with all the stangs?