The 'all show-no-go' t/a..

Got bored so making this thread for the car. Not hiding anything crazy so I'm just gonna throw the mods on here, probably get a few pictures up here of what I manage to ruin on it as well. And lets be honest half the people on here couldn't care less what I'm running anyways, SO mods SO FAR
For suspension type goodies we got: tubular k member, front and rear control arms, pan hard bar, tunnel brace with loop (taken off ordering a new one to fit exhaust),poly motor mounts and poly torque arm mount, drilled and slotted rotors and 17in knock off vette rims.
Motor type things that do stuff: tsp ported oil pump, tsp dual timing chain with billet gears, tsp pushrods, GM ASA cam specs are (226/236 duration .525 lift 110 LSA) tsp ls6 springs, ls6 valley and intake, slp smooth bellow and lid,egr delete, air pump removed, Underdrive pullies, stage 5 monster clutch and chromoly flywheel, 3.73 full posi carrier, 31spline axles, short shifter-(that adds at least 10hp), Bbk headers, and tsp 3in true dual dumps. No clue on hp, needs a re tune yet. Not the fastest thing around but for 17 id say its a good start! I'll throw some pictures on here soonish of stuff but yea, I guess that's about it

forgot to add i want to do a street/strip type of build. ideally my goal would be 500whp one day but we'll see what happens. need to paint the front bumper, and get a driveshaft at the moment, want to finish out getting mostly aftermarket suspension before doing more serious motor work.
old underbody shot

a nice dent someone left for me when i left my car parked in front of my house..awesome

the new exhaust

finishing up fitting the dumps


and where im at now

so yea there it is i dont have pictures of the motor but there's nothing to see it looks like a plain old ls1. 

I've got a guy that can most likely paintless dent repair that rear quarter.

How much would he want for that? I'm looking to get it fixed Ive just been looking around at pricing

He'd have to see it in person to really know for sure, but I can forward your photo along for an opinion.

Needs some naws

always like them Fbodys...

Working on getting nos at some point.. And yea let me know if they would want to do that dent fix at all

Currently getting a 6 point bolt in roll cage made for the car.. Just in case can't be too safe I guess, but mostly it looks sweet haha

FYI a lot of times roll cages are MORE dangerous unless your wearing a helmet..... More things to hit your head on...... That and adds weight to a car that is not fast enough to need it

Yea if I was that worried about weight I'd take the subs out. It's more for show.. But I agree with what you're saying. Also got the back seats out and have them sold. Hopefully getting a rear seat delete or something so it looks a little better than just dents where seats used to be. Saving up a bit then I'll figure what to do next. Considering trick flow heads and a bigger cam set up.

There have been a few tests done and your best hp/$ is porting stock castings. What heads are on the car now?

241s with upgraded Springs and rocker arms. I was thinking about porting those and maybe getting bigger valves but I'm still looking into it, I'm no expert on head work yet

Are you still running the stock ecu map? Just but running a simple tune you can get some pretty decent gains, atleast eliminate all the torque management for starters. If you get around my area I have a few to throw in there with HP Tuners. $150 for almost all GM's

I couldn't tell you what's done to it I just know it's unlocked on hp tuners and the guy before me messed with it..

Back seats are for sale if anyone interested..

think ive decided to try and go with the stage 2.5 5.3 heads from texas speed, still looking into a bigger cam, have no clue what to go with yet.

You also should be considering a different intake manifold while you at it, probably before you do any head work. And for cams you really don't want much more duration than you already have. Probably just a little more intake duration like an lsl 227 or lsl 231 lobe. You could use more lift for sure. Texas speeds torquer cams work pretty well. Or you can get custom cams ground from comp through them. That is what Tye and his roommates did for their ls cars. 227/231@.050"or 231/235@.050" with the lsl lobes on a 112 LSA would work good. Yes you can make more peak power with more duration, but drivability suffers and power under 5000 rpm is lost when you start getting closer to 240@.050"
If you go on texas speed or hinson supercars there is a selection for custom cams under engines and valve train. You can select you own lobes and lsa in the drop down menus. You will see the lsl lobes in there.

Thanks, and yea I was probably going to call into Texas speed and just explain what I'm looking for and see what they recommend, apparently they're really helpful with things like this. The drivability with it already isn't the best with the stage 5 clutch so I'm more concerned with just making good power and less worried about drivability.. And looking into get a gas saver so I don't have to drive this money put around all summer. Appreciate the input though I'll look into it more, thanks! Also forgot to add, fell free to call me a dumbass but what about the ms3 or ms4 cam? They seem like dyno chart sluts. Not very Street able but whatever. For the intake I wanted to either port the ls6 or look into a fast or ported fast with the matching throttle body and all that. With the heads also to deal with the cam I planned on getting all the necessary upgraded shit as far as the valve train goes. With similar set ups I've seen charts 450 to almost 500whp.. Any input on this as well? Again appreciate the input guys!

dumbass

sorry I couldn't pass up the opportunity   

Haha how did I know the first one to bite would be Schiller

Yea the ms3, ms4 cams make good power at 6000-6500 and will make a big peak number but suck under 5000 in an ls1. I have driven and ls1 with an ms4 and it was really flat until 5000 rpm. The stock style intakes like the fast and the ls6 are longer runner intakes and power will start to drop off after 6500 no matter what cam is in it, so you end up with a very narrow powerband. The average power made between your shift point and the rpm the motor drops to when you make a shift is what dictates how fast the car will accelerate, not just the peak number. So for an ls1 with a stock style intake mani and a t56, 4500-6500 rpm. And if you like the rest of us retards out there doing 40 rolls, your probably in second gear at 3500-4000 rpm. A bigger cam will make the car softer on the hit. Not good when your racing those damn evo's that are brake boosting and leaving at peak torque.

Spray it, problem solved.

Seriously though, I ran a TRex (242 248 @ .610), with cnc ported ls1 heads, and a fast 90/90. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 11.5:1 compression and it ran hard. I had a th400 with a big stall though, so I skipped right over the slouchy part of the rpm's.

Call someone up and get a custom cam.

Was also looking at the trex, and with my shorter gears I'm actually at 5k in first at a 40 roll.. And I'd love to spray but I don't know enough yet to be comfortable with it

That cam was good technology 10 years ago.

I also had a 6 speed in the car before I swapped in the auto. 6 speed with a heavy clutch, 9" with a full spool = no fun to drive around town.

I wouldn't recommend it with the 6 speed, auto is a different story.

Also, cam tech has come a long way. Shoot for more useable power, and you will be happier.