Sub Wiring

So check everything then? lol

pretty much. with the light being on, it pretty much narrows it down to rcas, remote, or you blew the amp.

unless the rca's or remote wire got cut somewhere in the unseen there good. Ill check them with my ohmmeter on monday when i can get to my toolbox. The ground should be good i think, at least it was working before. So i was told green light on the amp = good, and if it turns red it means its blown. I guess im hoping that if its green its good still lol, its a borrowed amp so im kind of fucked if it is bad. I was looking at it again and one of the female connectors in the box itself had broken off, i put a new one on but it didnt fix the problem...

How did you noticed that they stopped working? Playing and they quit.... turned it on and nothing?

If the green on the amp means good to go, the ground power and remote turn on are all good. Monoblock amp or stereo? Both channels out if it is the latter?

Was playing it and then all of the sudden there was nothing there. If by stereo you mean that theres two different sets of + - places to plug the subs in than thats what ive got. I didnt try switching them, right now there plugged in "bridged", at least i think thats the term. Should i try switching them? and Im not positive the green light means good, thats just what i was told.

green means theres power. not necessarily good. if it turns red you have a short somewhere. which a turn on/off of the power resets it. the green light can still be on if the amp is blown, and can still be on if you remote is bad IIRC. all the light shows it there is power at the amp i believe

Amp off no lights. Amp on / green = power, ground, and remote turn on are good. The remote lead is what triggers the amp to turn on in the first place. True that things can still be f'd up in the inside though.

lol damn. Anyone have an amp for sale, or know where i can get one cheap? Is there anyway to test the one ive got to for sure tell if its bad?

only way i know is to smell it, if its blown it will smell burnt. but i'm sure theres ways to test it

There should be a faint burning smell. My alpine blew twice on me within the first 3 months. Thank god for the warranty. Im pretty sure it was a wiring issue. Re wired it and no problems since (crossing fingers). If it smells burnt check over ur wiring before you put a new amp in just to make sure it doesn't happen again.

LLcoolJames wrote:

Was playing it and then all of the sudden there was nothing there. If by stereo you mean that theres two different sets of + - places to plug the subs in than thats what ive got. I didnt try switching them, right now there plugged in "bridged", at least i think thats the term. Should i try switching them? and Im not positive the green light means good, thats just what i was told.

I'm at job #2 with limited internet access, so I'm going to have to type this all out instead of grabbing some pics.....and I'm bored (knocks on wood that it stays quiet).

Just trying to get some background info, because doing this besides in person is a pain

So you're driving along and it quits? Were you pushing it hard?
The broken terminal.... how did this happen? Take a corner, some movement, and it quit?

How are things wired?
So you are running the amp bridged, so you have a set of wires coming off of the amp going to the box. Are there two subs or one?

I can only assume which 500W Sony this might be without a model number. I could be wrong because Sony made some KILLER old stuff, but I think the one in question doesn't have a strong track record being run hard or shorted.

JUST a guess..... Running too low of an impeadance bridged while rockin' out..... or..... shorted via the busted terminal. ONLY a guess via the net, so it doesn't mean jack

You you have a DMM handy? If so....
1. Disconnect the RCAs at the amp and check for AC voltage on one of them. If good, go to #2, if not, check RCA pigtail voltage from the deck.
2. Reconnect RCAs. Check for AC voltage on the amp's speaker outputs. If good, go to #3, if not, start looking on EBay for a replacement.
3. Disconnect speaker wire from box. Measure impeadance off of the box terminal. Depending on what's in there (16 - 1 ohms, don't know your sub configuration), cool, but WTF is going on. If uber high or nothing, start looking on EBay for some subs.

It depends on what pops in the amp. The smoke door doesn't always open, though most of the time it does. Most of the time you can smell voice coil too, but not always.

It's hard not to notice either.

I was driving, was listening at about level 10 of 40 on my deck, so i wasnt really pushing it, got a phone call and killed the music. I did drive over a part of the road where they have it all torn up so its just gravel and pretty rough when i was on the phone. When i went to turn the music back up there was no bass.

Its 2 MTX tens in one box, the wires are spliced together in the box and stuck into the back of a connector block thingy (technical term i know) on the side of the box. Then i just have it wired bridged to the amp.

Its a beat up sony 500w XM 504Z.

Unfortunately no meter handy, both of mine are in my toolbox at work.

Hmmmm, something sounds goofey anyways.

4 channel amp bridged gives you two channels. Assuming the tens are 4 ohms subs "spliced" some how, some way in the box to one + & - terminal coming out of the box...... you have either an 8 ohm load (good) or 2 ohm load (BAD in your application)..... you're making my head hurt

Check you PM

Big props to tusk for getting my stuff together tonight. Sounds awesome to me!

No problem