F body build Rear axle build

What did he go to?

00camaro wrote:

I may be interested in the rearend and drive shaft

I KNOW YOU DO!

U LK2LSE wrote:

What did he go to?

fab'd 9"

he redid absolutely all the drivetrain, so the rear end was only used with a bolt on ls1 with no stall. the guy is in his 50s too

y are you not going to run the 3.73 "nightrunner"?????

well , long story short,


i have a series 3 rear end, which wouldnt have mattered but i want to keep my posi unit ( cause its a factory upgrade).



it wouldve been fine if i wouldve taken mine out ( housing and all) and put the one i have for sale in. but honestly its not that important to me.


hopefully this makes sense.

How would a series 3 be an upgrade from a series 2?

mtperformance wrote:

How would a series 3 be an upgrade from a series 2?

i wasnt saying it was.


i was saying my posi unit is upgraded ( which happens to be a series 3) ......... and the housing for sale is a series 2. so i couldnt just take those gears and put them on my posi unit.

I believe you can with the correct shims.

i tried. putting my diff with the 3.73 gears into the series 2 housing. and it didnt fit. ( the reason i tried doing it this way is because i didnt want to take the pinion out and deal with getting a new crush sleeve, and re shim everything.)


im sure i could get it to work if i were to throw all the parts into the series 3 housing, but honestly I could care less, i really like my 3.42's . cause 99 % i drive longer distances.


Blake and overboosting, and Legasti, and I wasted a afternoon and night for this crap , so i just put everything back to stock. LOL

I just showed up to see it not work, then I left

There really isn't much difference performance-wise from 3.42's to 3.73's anyways, is there?


I'm looking at gears right now, and 3.42's seem slightly better for highway travel....

Blackout. You would love these .... I had 373 in my last car and really liked it. Made a big difference for the automatic

what does he have for gears now?

3.23's? Stock gearing in an auto F-body. I'm trying to find out what converter I have too, since I know that a 3000-3600 stall would be ideal with better gears.

2800-3000. Would be ideal... by midwest converters .



And the stall that's in there now is pretty much stock

How big is the cam in your lt Juan if you don't mind sharing.

A lot of people under stall their cars because they think its impossible to drive.

With my old car I had a 242/248 cam and a 3200-3600 stall at first. Didn't get it done like it should. Sent it in for a rental and went with 4200-4400. Muchhhh better, plus a lot more fun. This was all in a th400 BTW.

I also ran a vigilante stall for what its worth. Excellent experience and customer service.

StrokedZ wrote:

a 3000-3600 stall would be ideal with better gears.

Sorry Kevin, I actually think you are wrong about that, the way I've always heard to determine stall is it should be directly correlated to the peak of your torque curve, so for example if you get peak at 3500 rpm's then you should have a stall built to flash to that point.


Mike

yes flash should be at peak torque or just above it..... it really works well with OD trans with lock up converters you can have a big stall and still drive it around when it is in lock up.....

Yes to the above.

I see it all the time on ls1tech. Someone has a 230s cam in their ls1 and wants a 2500 stall.

The cam is a GM847, so I'm just trying to feel out how big of a stall I want.

Yank 3400

Speaking of which, I need to get those Dyno sheets from you, so I can figure all of this out LOL

Here are some. I have a few more.

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Big stall+3.73's = completely different car.

Thanks!!

Yup that actually tells you a lot Kevin. You Re going to drop a nut when I tell you this, but look at a well built 4500 stall converter and i'm not talking about one of those cheap piece of shit B and M converters, but a company like Coan, PTC, TurboAction to build one for you. Don't fret the stall a well built converter with proper cooling will work no matter what the stall. Also you need to find a accurate scale that tells you the race weight with you in it,

Always look to shift 1500 rpms above peak torque, in your case 6000 rpms and you are going to dip further into the 12's. The increased gears will help low end torque a lot 3.73 is good, now Steve will bop me for this, but I might even consider a set of 4.10's.

Mike