F body build Rear axle build

See, now I'm wondering if i should bite the bullet and do intake/heads FIRST, and then get it on a dyno to see where its at.

The car was 3440 with a quarter tank as it sits.

Finish the setup before you get more power, that way you don't have to worry about the rear end issue you are going to have with heads/intake.

Also, a better setup car will be a lot more fun to drive

You have a point there. I'm already planning on destroying the rear end at some point.

+1 I actually believe building cars back to forward. If you haven't. It is time to upgrade rear axles, seriously look at that 10 bolt. A well built rear axle is like insurance piece of mind.

Mike

buy that rearend dude...3.73's seem to do good things for those cars.

MikeyT wrote:

+1 I actually believe building cars back to forward. If you haven't. It is time to upgrade rear axles, seriously look at that 10 bolt. A well built rear axle is like insurance piece of mind.

Mike

You are right on the upgrade part but that 10 bolt isnt the answer. 10 bolt fbody rear ends are pretty weak regardless of what is in them. He should be looking at something more along the lines of a Moser 12 bolt or custom 8.8 ford rear if he plans on making more than stock power.

bigbird94 wrote:

MikeyT wrote:

+1 I actually believe building cars back to forward. If you haven't. It is time to upgrade rear axles, seriously look at that 10 bolt. A well built rear axle is like insurance piece of mind.

Mike

You are right on the upgrade part but that 10 bolt isnt the answer. 10 bolt fbody rear ends are pretty weak regardless of what is in them. He should be looking at something more along the lines of a Moser 12 bolt or custom 8.8 ford rear if he plans on making more than stock power.

Ummm... last time I checked, I already WAS making more than stock power. By the way, you have a PM!

Do what you want Kevin. Bigbird does have a point. However, I agree with Chris get the 3.73 gears, but be prepared to upgrade everything else around it with good pieces. I mean do you really think that 3.73 ring and tooth is going to stay together and stay unharmed if you torque shear an axle. Just build right the first time and be done with it.

I don't necessarily agree with bigbird that you will need a moser12 or even nine inch, but a build up is in order and you are not going to like how an axle gernading fucks up the back half of your car.

Just trying to help.

Mike

My thinking is that I want to do the gears, front brakes, and converter this summer/fall, and wait for the rear to go. I doubt I'm going to harm it the way it sits right now, but you never know. Over the winter, heads, intake and if i didn't loose the rear end this year..... possibly something beefy. I don't want to fabricate shit, so i'll be looking for a bolt up solution. Also when the rear goes in, its getting LCA's, a beefier PHB, a torque arm w/relocation and other minor stuff.

I know a lot of people who've blown up 10 bolts, but it seems like most of them are either making real big power or running an M6.

When ur ready to really upgrade (to a 12 bolt and real suspension) let me know I'm already looking for bigger and better because of my future plans... If u wanna know what I will be willing to get rid of just shoot me a pm and I'll get a list together. (I'm in no hurry I'm happy with what I got jus if I could get a local buyer set up then I know I won't sit on my rear after I spend all kinds of money on the biggest and badest)

Gears and brakes sound good but I would wait for a stall until after the heads and cam if ur thinking about doing it this winter already. Also u r right about 10 bolts ur auto isn't goin tospit it out as fast as and m6 car there a lot of stock 10 bolt autos in the low 11s but they are jus waiting for the day the diff gives out like mine finally did this year.

Ok, im not trying kick dirtbody's ideas in the dirt.

But let's look on the realistic side of things.

1. 4500 stall... I don't think so. From what I've seen kevin you drive it ALOT on the street compared to at the track. So after looking at the Dyno sheet, the. Highest I would go is a actual 3600 stall. Much more streetable. And Im pretty sure a 4500 stall may cause overheating problems especially in a 4l60e.

2. Go with 373. 410's will suck daily driving.. also I've heard that the 3.73 gears are stronger then the 4.10's. And they are also easier on the rear end.


3. Are you going to blow your rear end with this set up.... I highly doubt it!

Like I said before. Im not saying others are wrong. Im just thinking practicality

Why cheat the setup with a 3600 stall?

I mean I kinda agree with your point but if your gonna drop it off that far you might as well leave a stock one in there.

4000-4200 was going to be my recommendation. And a big trans cooler.

Not to get off subject here, but I was thinking about this and felt kind of bad. We should probably split it off as a separate thread.

However, since it is here. I'll give a plug to JD. Kevin you could do a lot worse then the 3.73 set up. I'm sure it is a great unit and wake up the car. I was really happy with the carb I bought from JD.


Now, back to build question. I would say thus don't be scared away by that stall speed. Heat build up is directly related to rate of slippage in the converter. I know lots of mopar guys who street drive their Mopars often that run 4000 + stall speeds.

Again, the important thing is to get a good quality one built for your car.

Mike

can a admin split this off and move it to domestic or something so we don't keep messing up JD's thread?

I think the 10 bolt will live a long time behind that auto even with a stall. throw a 3.73 gear in it and have fun as for the stall DO NOT DO IT TILL AFTER THE HEADS AND INTAKE. why spend money on a stall that is build for a combo that you no longer have? When you get teh ehads and intake on there then you will have a more educated guess on where the stall should be. as for the stall speed like I said for a track car buy the one that is at peak torque. For the street you don't want need all that stall. you need enough stall to get the car quickly into the power a little lower stall will help hook and let it pull into the power....... my big block had a 3000 stall in it but peak torque was 5500 on the engine dyno but 5100 on the wheel dyno...... if i would have had a bigger stall traction would have been worthless and the trans would have a ton more heat to deal with for the track sure for a street car no way.... now that was a non lock up th400 this is a lock up 4l60 so it can have a bit more stall and will not be a problem when in lock up. Id say JD is pretty close on the 3600 number hell with peak torque at 391 at 4300 it is at 372 at 3800 not a huge loss in torque so why have the bigger stall slipping when not in lock up. Now the other thing that people don't look at is stall ratio at 4000 stall with 2.7 ratio will hit the tires a lot harder then a 400 stall with a 2.2 ratio... in your combo your talking 1036ft/lb VS 844ft/lb..... just something to think about

here is a link to the stalls and stall ratios on yank converters which lots of people have good luck with on 4l60's
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/14597399-post1.html

but on a side note the higher stall ratios are less efficent

Agree 100%^
now get the fuck off my for sale thread! Everybody!

whats for sale????

^ U didnt read....



So in my truck a stock replacement stall and a 373 rearend? after im done building my engine.

I through the budget out the window. and decided im just gunna drive it like it is with the 307 rearend and 305 for the winter and build the my 350 right the first time.

and ideas as to if i should swap rearends? it does have the posi-lock.